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Friday 28 September 2012

Being a Muzungu

The Kaara community we stayed in, was well out in the countryside, even the Ugandans didn't quite know where it was on a map. So, not suprisingly for many of the people we met they'd never seen a white person before. We'd drive along the tracks to the shouts of delight of the children as they shrieked "Muzungu! Muzungu!" (White person, white person) as they waved at us to catch our attention.

We were a novelty, a once in a lifetime experience. So our hands were held, are arms stroked, and hair played with. The children took our glasses, our hats, our cameras. 

We were not seen as wealth, a source of money or expensive gifts.

 Yet, when we left the area we were. In Kabale (the main city in the south) we attracted beggars. And yet this was nothing compared to when we went to Queen Elizabeth National Park, we watched two children as they spotted the car of Muzungus and sprinted towards us with joy on their faces. And we got ready to wave at them, but as they drew near they pulled a sad face and reached out their hands for money.

I felt hurt, and yet their response was, in hindsight, what I should have expected. They saw my colour and expected money, whilst I saw them and expected a friendly welcome. How often do we different expectations of each other? And is it right, that developing countries look for money and wealth from developed countries? Surely, giving money to these countries if like giving a man a fish, rather than teaching him to fish. I know we can't stop begging overnight, but surely if we respect peoples cultures, not flash our wealth and encourage local crafts it's better than giving a beggar money?

When in another tourist region, one of the Ugandan ladies we worked there commented on the fact 'We looked like Ugandans and spoke like them too' why? Because we dressed like Ugandans, and respected their dress, and spoke the limited Rugika we knew before speaking in English. And in doing show, demonstrated that we respected the culture we were part of. If we don't embrace cultural differences, does that send out the message that their culture is below ours? That they should become British too? I don't know the answers, and it might be completely untrue, but what happens if it isn't? Is this a new age of colonialism but this time through tourism rather than the army?

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